Repair your vehicle at your own risk. Short of changing the entire knuckle assembly the two useful tools are a really big hammer and/or a torch. Note there are probably other scenarios I cannot predict that can occur as a result of damage caused by a hammer. Definitely don't put any kind of grease or anti-seize on the spline that goes inside the transmission. Piece of cake. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guaranty that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. I replaced the transmission on my 02 oydessey in the process of putting the axles back in passenger side went right in the drivers side is being stubborn and won't go back I did notice there is some sort of o ring on the end of the axle could this be stopping it and if so is there away to compress it, Toyota Sienna and RAV4 Engine Swap - Dropping The Subframe, Removing The Front Bumper Cover on a 2013 - 2014 Ford Mustang, Second Gen Ford Fusion Front Bumper Cover Removal, 2013 - 2014 Ford Mustang Rear Bumper Cover Removal, How To Remove Front Bumper on Ford Focus - Third Generation, How To: Mazda 6 Front Bumper Removal First Gen, Mazda 6 Front Lower Rear Control Arm Replacement | Removal and Installation, Audi A4 B5 2.8L V6 Timing Belt Replacement | Removal And Installation, Audi A4 B6 1.8T AMB Timing Belt Replacement, Volvo 850 Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement. If a metal hammer is used, and in some situations a metal hammer will have to be used, extreme care should be taken not to hit anything other than the cv axle. Youtube has plenty of videos on how to do this. 3. IF you use the slide hammer, go ahead and remove the brake calipers (hang the caliper from the strut with a hook) and rotor. In the middle of our 5 hour drive to visit my Mother, we began experiencing violent shaking intermitently on the front end. You will need to remove the axle nut. just replaced axle on both sides on 02 odyssey , now have a vibration in the front when driving. The lip of the axle nut will be dented in one place so you will need a flat head screw driver to straighten this out as much as possible. Unless you are really strapped for cash do not go with option 3. Thanks! It was a good move on my part. This will give them some slack when you start moving the knuckle out of the way. It IS possible to remove the heat shield and intermediate shaft without removing the exhaust but it requires patience, universal joints, extensions, ratcheting box-in wrenches, a bunch of reaching and repositioning and about 3 hours of time. Option 1 is to buy an OEM axle and last time I checked the price for that was around $300. ... That way, the bolt and screw threads firmly attach to the matching threaded hole or nut. Great article. Both outside boots were torn. Separate the the intermediate shaft from the half shaft by knocking it out with a hammer. Did you do anything else besides change the axles? The first time I changed the axles because I had leaking boots, so with 130,000 miles I changed the wheel bearings too (that was then...not now). Once again Thank You Artem, You're welcome! I've always been taught that it is safer to pull a wrench than to push a wrench. The axle was fused to the hub. Obviously you will have to connect the two passenger side shafts before installing them into the vehicle. A couple of nice hits with the hammer should pop the axle out of the knuckle. 2. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Now 1 month after my axles, which by the way dealer had to replace the aftermarket ones for OEM, because they just could not get rid of steering wheel shudder, my transmission went out, but after cooling down would go in gear enough for it to be loaded onto trailer. Honda Odyssey; Year Lug Nut Torque Lug Nut Size; 2003: 80 lbf.ft: M12 X 1.5, 19mm socket: 2004: 80 lbf.ft: M12 X 1.5, 19mm socket: 2005: 94 lbf.ft: M14 X 1.5, 22mm socket: 2006: 94 lbf.ft: M14 X 1.5, 22mm socket: 2007: 94 lbf.ft: M14 X 1.5, 22mm socket: 2008: 94 lbf.ft: M14 X 1.5, 22mm socket: 2009: 94 lbf.ft: M14 X 1.5, 22mm socket: 2010: 94 lbf.ft: M14 X 1.5, 22mm socket: 2011: 94 lbf.ft I also was able to get a wrecking bar on it for a whack or two. While this video is somewhat detailed and does go over the basic steps of axle replacement it is lacking in some respects. Was there a seal I should have replaced when putting the new axle in? 3. Again, great write up, made it so much easier thank you. Hear it here https://youtu.be/ytYGD-AwVyI. Thanks for the post Jim! And yes, that made me nervous being there and hammering, even though I had 2 jack stands, a floor jack, and both wheels under the car for safety. 2. Use a 36mm socket to remove the nut. I also, do not show the removal and installation of the circlips and I do not provide torque specifications. I have replaced motor mounts, drive axles and one wheel bearing. Thanks for stopping by :). Correct, it is not required but when you have an axle that won't budge, as it was in my case, it is a lot easier to remove the intermediate shaft along with the axle. Any thoughts? Algien me puede decir si el eje de mi odisea tiene anillo de abs, Quiero saber si el eje de la odisea 2006 tiene anillo de abs, I just did this for the 2nd time on my 2006. If a lip is created, by impact with a hammer, on the bearing surface where the rim fits over it, it could result in the wheel working it's self loose over time. I'm finding it extremely difficult to remove the intermediate shaft on a 2007 (same as 2005). It's a bit of redneck engineering but thought I'd share it in case anyone was stuck and needed another idea. I'm not sure which actually knocked it loose. Be careful.Note: In regard to the method shown to separate the outer tie rod end. Also, a note of the method I used to tighten down my axle nut using the pry bar through the lug studs, this method could potentially be dangerous as the pry bar could slip off. Honda OEM axles can be purchased for about $150 each, so $300 for the pair. If the seal is grazed or stabbed by the cv axles then the seal could be damaged. any suggestions. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. With the bolts removed the knuckle is free to be moved out. I was working on an Odyssey 2005, and it has a heat shield that protects the joint. There is no where to pry and no where to fish a long tool through to bang it out from behind. After a few blows the ball joint just release and you will not have damaged the boots like a pickle fork will. I just did both driveshafts on my 2012 EX-L. Remember, if you are removing the driver side axle you will need to drain some of the transmission fluid. If you have to use excessive force to get it into the hub/knuckle then something is not right (most likely you got the wrong size axle). Really nice article - easy to follow - but I do have a question about step 4. If so, what type of grease should I use and on which spline ends should I put grease on, like to the wheel end or to the tranny end? I drained the transmission first. This lowers or outright eliminates the risk that the bolt or screw will work itself loose. Great write up. You can either remove the half shaft by knocking it out (I do this in the next step) and leave the intermediate shaft in place or you can remove the intermediate shaft mounting bolts (1) and slide the whole assembly out.