The ignition switch, although a 3-way switch, only works in two positions – ignition on or off. The trikes lack any rear reflectors, and being over 1.3m wide it must have 2 fitted (equally spaced) in order to pass the MOT so one of the first jobs should be to get hold of a couple of stick on or bolt on reflectors! The panels of the ZTR are all moulded from 3mm ABS. I’d even lost a nut from the A arm suspension point! Pure. The seats are very small and with such a small space between between the two seats you end up feeling/stroking your passengers leg every time you change gear. Then simply tighten point C so it pushes the wheel right up to the thread of D. Due to the handbrake assembly using a mechanical force on the rear calliper after every 100 or so miles the handbrake will need adjusting to counter the wear in the brake pads. This can be important in racing where there is regular hard braking; the driver doesn’t want to boil his brake fluid or set the pads on fire. Plus, since the trike is so close to the road (100mm ride height) there is very little absorption so you really do need to keep a very tight hold of the steering wheel. Unfortunately/fortunately the chassis paint is black so it made the dash support I’d welded in pretty much invisible on photographs, so I used photoshop to draw in some green lines so you can see the work…, With the dash support system fitted, I roughly bolted in the dash and started to measure and fit the gauges, ignition and switches…. The front wheels are employing a spacer to change the ET (the bronze assembly in the above picture) and the single rear wheel is a 14″ alloy with 270/30 rubber. And even 3 days later, after attempting to dry the seats, I still ended up with a wet ass. The horn and ignition light don’t work, the choke is ugly, the indicator switch could be better and the hazard lights switch is disastrous. A shows the original steering mount and B is the new one. Note that it only needs to be loosened, not removed. The fuel tank refitted into the trike with the new sender unit. Like most motorbikes, the engine is “hard bolted” directly to the chassis. Thanks to an autonomous entity, it allows the user to simply create a vehicle designed to meet his needs.The EON system is based on the duo horse/carriage. The ZTR Trike Manual is basic to say the least…. Problem is, this assembly sits so low down in the tank that if the “low fuel light” is permanently illuminated, your running on fumes. Another angle of the new gear and handbrake positions. The added benefit of this assembly is that the VDO also has an earth strap. “Fishtailing” the hoops ensures a positive connection to the original roll hoop, It was then just a case of welding the new hoops to the original roll hoop and test fitting to see how they look…. The ZTR Hypersport Roadster Reverse Trike, A Modification Diary of the Hypersport ZTR Reverse Trike, The ZTR “Hypersport Roadster” Reverse Trike. Once I had the moulds, I could cast them in a heavy duty fibreglass. Also this nut should not be any tighter than a light pinch with a spanner so there is no need for excessive force. For this, I sprayed expanding foam onto the front body and once it had gone off, I shaped it with chisels and sandpaper before covering it in body filler, sanding it and then taking a fibreglass copy of it. After completely renovating and rebuilding the trike (upgrading brakes, suspension, adding a dash, new speedo, fuel gauge, temp gauge, changing to RH drive for UK, moving the handbrake, changing the seats, moving the gear shift lever and adding a paddle system), its lovely to look at but the engine is completely useless. The gearshift system was a little more complicated to fit. More importantly, though, despite the marketing on Zhenhua and Loncin, the engines are trash. This makes the trike a somewhat visceral experience to drive with all the pot holes and generally poor condition of the roads. As this is tightened, it will push the wheel towards the back of the trike in effect tensioning the chain. Put simply, if you hit your brakes hard and your front wheels lock up and skid (assuming you don’t have ABS), then your brakes are fine. The end result is that the cars rear brakes become unbalanced and will under perform. Design study for a highly futuristic, sculptural, autonomous vehicle. With larger brake callipers fitted to the front it will take less braking effort to reach the same braking force as smaller callipers; or in other words it requires less brake fluid pressure on the front calliper piston to produce the same amount of coefficient friction. Moreover, due to the gear ratios and poor torque on both models it can struggle pulling away on steep inclines ( a pain when a give way or stop sign is at the top of a hill) and reversing is particularly weak. If you meet no resistance and it rolls freely, tighten it by a further turn and repeat. Once I had a basic design that worked with a driver and passenger on board I welded in a couple of threaded hex bars to the left and right of the upper main crossmember and then welded in a number of basic dashboard support bars from 12mm x 3mm steel bar. The trike pedals are very small and “slippy”. On a new trike, there is actually nowhere to fit a registration plate beyond bolting it to the fairing itself so I decided to fabricate my own holder. I’ve found a suitable replacement for the engine and will be replacing it asap! To do this, I used a rubber sealing mount between the tank and the steel plate, and then a secondary sealing rubber mount between the gauge and the top of the steel plate. The biggest problem is that the engines exhibit excessive vibration and this results in many of the bolts working loose and falling off while you drive it. While working on the steering, I replaced all the bushes and splines, along with fitting a (much) better quality steering hub column. The wiring itself borders between poor to downright terrible. Reverse Trike Chassis. I do not recommend upgrading your brakes unless you know what your doing…, The difference between the old discs and new, larger discs, Large discs are often enough to increase applied brake force. This means the vehicle will not decelerate as quickly as it did before the modifications. I decided to use an electromagnetic shifter so that it would work without the need to replace gas bottles etc. Firstly, its not possible to use the seat adjusters that are supplied, they result in positioning the seats too high to be functional, especially with the limited space under the steering wheel. Straight from the factory, it’s drivable but you are risking your own safety and those of your passengers. After removing the firewall, you can access the tank and its strapping, and also access the original fuel sender unit. Without wanting to go into mathematics with regards to the coefficient friction and retardive forces, the stopping power in any vehicle isn’t in the size of the brake discs or the (insert number) pot callipers but how much rubber you have on the road (i.e your tyres). The steering rods were (somewhat poorly) cobbled together creating bump steer, Steering rods also made tracking difficult (different ends on L and R! Due to the strange approach of the manual I thought I would start this page as a web based operators manual to cover regular servicing and part identification. The picture above shows the original ZTR Trike fuel sender unit. In order to fit one of these, however, you will need to modify the fuel tank because you can’t purchase a third party resistive sender that will simply bolt into the current tank. Tighten the 10mm bolt by a full turn and then try to push the trike forwards or backwards. My only problem is that its the typical cheap Chinese motorbike gearbox. : 250 /340kg Its B in the picture below and uses an aircraft cover but being set sideways it means that water collects inside and rusts the switch! The ZTR runs on unleaded fuel and the fuel tank is located on the O/S, just under the fairings and rear of the seat. It should be obvious but I’ll state it anyway, the seats are not a direct swap and require “edits” to fit. Since I modified my trike to accept a paddle gear change system, I didn’t have a problem fitting the new seats. I had a big problem with the original assembly, the pedals were smooth and too close together so I wanted to change this. The gearstick is connected to a cable linkage system that runs through the firewall and activates the bikes gearbox. Also, if you drive this with a passenger you need to ensure you’re on very friendly terms. The electrical system is 12v / 12AH, powered by a single battery that is tucked under the NS wing. The drivers display consists of nothing more than a small digital display covering the absolute bare minimum of what’s required to pass an IVA (VOSA’s requirements for a car to be roadworthy) and ECC. This obviously gives a subjective impression that the brakes are “better” but it does not stop your vehicle any faster than an identical vehicle with smaller discs and callipers. Although there is a fuel sender unit fitted to the tank, on many models its a sliding earth switch so it can only illuminate a light on the dash when you’re almost empty. It runs far too fast, sounding like 1200 RPM so its worth stripping the panels off, letting the trike run for an hour and then adjusting the fuel/air ratios. You can find a more detailed breakdown of the trike by clicking here. I chose this option because; I started with the handbrake system. The trike is fitted with a sequential gearbox featuring a reverse gear. Overspray and runs are evident everywhere, its even on the chassis and radiators showing that the trike was fully assembled and then sprayed. Door er een bestelwagen van te maken, bijvoorbeeld. I originally thought it may just be my model but from reports I’ve received and those I’ve seen, they’re all the same. The choke is a special “racing choke” and looks better than the old school chokes I think. While the gear shifting is OK on the trike, I’m not a huge fan. The following picture show the chain assembly: To make it clearer, this picture shows the opposite side of the trike which has the same adjustment system – you need to adjust both sides to tension the chain. I created a sandwich system to prevent leaks. The new pedal support bar welded in place. Firstly, there is no fuel gauge. It flashes in time with the indicators and being so large, its easy to turn the indicators on by extending a finger meaning I don’t have to let go of the steering to indicate or to turn them off again. There really isn’t a significant difference in torque or power that makes the exchange worth it. The Trike Roadster uses an ATV-like chassis. This involved cutting one of the pedal bars in half (the accelerator pedal bar) and then welding half of it onto the clutch pedal. Professional ZTR Trike Roadster,ZTR,Trike Roadster,Trike Roadster accessories supplier,wholesale,manufacturer from China. Eventually, after a lot of measuring and email communications I settled on Clubmans.